The beer is going to sit in the secondary for another week or so (until +21 to brewday, approximately) to let it mellow and clear. Got all my bottling supplies, and I probably have enough bottles now (or will by then). So I'll bottle then, let it condition there for 2 weeks, and have my first real tasting...
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
Jalapeno beer update
Took gravity measurements on brewday +7 and +9, but came out at 1.016 (approx 6% ABV). Moved the beer off the yeast and the jalapenos for a secondary fermentation. Had a taste - It definitely has some spice, but it's a quick hit and then it's gone. Good roasted jalapeno flavor. No off flavors that I could detect, so I'm going to go ahead and assume I cleaned things well enough.
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Cross-post - Murf
1961 Volvo P210 - Murf
Murf is named in honor of the most recent PO - Though I'm not sure he deserves it, the guy was a loon. He put the "Murf's Mortuary" thing on the side as a joke. Part of the joke included the airbrushed curtains.
The 210 is a total rust bucket, so I've got my work cut out for me. The front clip and doors were all pretty bad. Thankfully I had a 444 that I pulled the front clip off of, and I've just managed to find pretty good condition doors... Though I'm paying almost as much for them as I did for Murf. I've already priced out $800 or so in patch panels besides.
The interior is in bad shape as well - The floor is mostly license plates at this point (thanks Murf). Dash not so hot, though I just picked up a replacement.
Mechanically, it's running pretty strong. It's got a relatively fresh B18 in it, a tired M40, and freshly rebuilt brakes. I have a 5cyl whiteblock I was planning on putting in it at some point, but it will be the last thing I consider doing with the B18 being such a solid runner and the body being as bad as it is.
I'm not going for a full on 100% resto - Right now, the main point is just to get the body solid and straight. That'll be a long enough road that I haven't though a lot about what the end game is, if there is one.
Here it is, in all its glory, before I started touching it.
Needed someplace for brewnotes -
Jalapeno Amber Ale (real name pending)
Start date: 5/15/11
Start date: 5/15/11
Batch size: 5 gal
Original Gravity: 1.060
This was originally the "Smashing Pumpkin" kit from Northern Brewers - I left out the pumpkin spice and replaced it with 1.25lbs roasted and then halved jalapenos. 3 in the boil, the rest in the fermenter. Seeds and all, so I'm just a little nervous :)
Getting up to the boil took forever, but it was steady once that started. That was Sunday, fermentation started Monday afternoon. Excited to see how this one turns out... Will have a small taste once it's done fermenting.
Original Gravity: 1.060
This was originally the "Smashing Pumpkin" kit from Northern Brewers - I left out the pumpkin spice and replaced it with 1.25lbs roasted and then halved jalapenos. 3 in the boil, the rest in the fermenter. Seeds and all, so I'm just a little nervous :)
Getting up to the boil took forever, but it was steady once that started. That was Sunday, fermentation started Monday afternoon. Excited to see how this one turns out... Will have a small taste once it's done fermenting.
Thursday, March 18, 2010
Sometimes I find tips that will be useful down the road...
And I don't know where to put them. So, here's a nice little step by step for trim polishing.
1. With a bodywork punch set, hammer out from the backside any dents (this takes trial and error practice).
2. For any deeper-than-surface scratches, sand them out. Start with 300 grit, then 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000.
3. For any paint overspray, use step 2.
4. Get two Mother's mini power balls. Wet them both with water, and squeeze dry.
5. Insert mini-ball into an angled high-speed die grinder.
6. Apply rubbing compound to the miniball, and and polish the trim . . . it'll get really dirty, so keep adding fresh rubbing compound. You're going to want to use this to remove visible scratches.
7. Wipe clean.
8. Apply polishing compound to the other miniball, and polish the trim, adding new polishing compound as you go.
9. Wipe clean. At this point, you'll have a near-mirror finish. If you want to go balls out, proceed to step 10.
10. Get a cotton flap wheel and jeweler's polishing rouge made for stainless steel / aluminum (depending on what you're working on). Apply the rouge to the cotton wheel; use the cotton wheel to polish the metal to a mirror shine. This part goes very slowly, and is quite time-intensive.
(credit to "R Salesman", on Turbobricks.com)
Also, just a generally good post on bodywork - ...how do I take care of the bodywork?
1. With a bodywork punch set, hammer out from the backside any dents (this takes trial and error practice).
2. For any deeper-than-surface scratches, sand them out. Start with 300 grit, then 400, then 600, then 800, then 1000.
3. For any paint overspray, use step 2.
4. Get two Mother's mini power balls. Wet them both with water, and squeeze dry.
5. Insert mini-ball into an angled high-speed die grinder.
6. Apply rubbing compound to the miniball, and and polish the trim . . . it'll get really dirty, so keep adding fresh rubbing compound. You're going to want to use this to remove visible scratches.
7. Wipe clean.
8. Apply polishing compound to the other miniball, and polish the trim, adding new polishing compound as you go.
9. Wipe clean. At this point, you'll have a near-mirror finish. If you want to go balls out, proceed to step 10.
10. Get a cotton flap wheel and jeweler's polishing rouge made for stainless steel / aluminum (depending on what you're working on). Apply the rouge to the cotton wheel; use the cotton wheel to polish the metal to a mirror shine. This part goes very slowly, and is quite time-intensive.
(credit to "R Salesman", on Turbobricks.com)
Also, just a generally good post on bodywork - ...how do I take care of the bodywork?
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